Wednesday 16 May 2012

Discovering pagodas in Myanmar 2004


Myanmar (formerly known as Burma) and its beauty, magic and mystery are difficult to capture in words - it has to be experienced.  India, which I visited before Myanmar, was mostly about vibrant colours and enticing smells; Myanmar was all pagodas, Buddhist statues, floating tomato fields and markets; but even though Myanmar borders on India, the people could not be more different. The Burmese are lovely - in their simplicity and honesty, and they are truly welcoming people, whilst the children I met were all quite enchanting, all waving and wanting to hold my hand.

In many ways, Myanmar is reminiscent of India, with men wearing traditional longhis made out of cotton, and like Asia, shoes must be removed before entering any of the temples; on the subject of temples, I must mention the nuns and the beautiful faded fuchsia / fluorescent pink coloured robes that they wore, with their shaved heads, a symbol of renounced femininity.  Similarly to the Moroccans, the Burmese are not big fans of nightclubs and prefer to hang out at teahouses by night, often outdoors, located on the side of the road, with candles on miniature tables and matching chairs.  This is also what the Indians do - but they drink spicy chai instead!

In Yangon we saw the Chauk Htat Giji Pagoda, an enormous reclining Buddha, followed by the Shwedegan Pagoda, which was one step up and humungous!  The central stupa was surrounded by loads of intricately decorated buildings of Buddha, dragons and various other creatures.  I have never seen so many buddhas in all of my life.

On a trip along Lake Inle we saw men fishing and women rowing, with their vessels full of sacks of tomatoes; the women adopted an interesting rowing technique, immortalised in local postcards, whereby they would row their boat standing up, with one leg wrapped around the oar, in order to keep their hands free to clear the tangled weeds on the lake.  There were houses on stilts made of bamboo with no running electricity, and in the village of Sagar we saw corn husks out to dry, along with saffron, as well as banana and papaya trees, and watched peanut oil being extracted from the nuts as an oxen walked around in circles, activating the device it was attached to, which pounded the nuts. We watched the sun setting behind Mount Popa, and observed a beautiful sky full of stars not long after, where it was so crystal clear that you could see the galaxies in the distance.

In Bagan, we visited a sandalwood forest, which was also the home of the golden deer.  They sported huge antlers on their head, that seemed out of proportion with the rest of their bodies, and had a beautiful red coat.  An early night followed, as my brother and I had a 5am start the next morning in time for the balloon ride over Bagan half an hour later.  The take-off was pretty smooth, but the landing was trickier.  We all had to assume landing positions, knees bent, back facing backwards, hands on the grips, and the landing was rocky, though it did get my adrenaline pumping quite nicely, and I also enjoyed watching the balloons being inflated before take-off.

The temples of Myanmar were truly spectacular, with well preserved frescoes and murals inside, in wonderful shades of green, red, yellow and turquoise, but unfortunately photography was prohibited in them.  Towards the end of our trip I had seen so many temples/pagodas/buddhas that I started to look at them all in the same light, and they just merged into one - beautiful, but definitely overkill!

© Copyright Vanessa Sicre





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